Old Vines

Vieilles vignes sounds reassuringly precise. It isn’t. There is no universal definition of an “old vine”, and in many wine regions the phrase arrives on the label without the inconvenience of a minimum age.

Which is a pity, because old vineyards genuinely can be remarkable. With age, vines often become less vigorous and yields may decline; some old vineyards also preserve historic varieties, selections and farming traditions that have disappeared elsewhere. But age is not a quality guarantee. A beautifully farmed younger vineyard on a great site can make better wine than a neglected centenarian. The romance is considerably tidier than the viticulture.

Some regions have therefore attempted something radical: numbers. The Barossa Old Vine Charter starts at 35 years, then recognises Survivor vines at 70, Centenarian vines at 100 and Ancestor vines at 125. South Africa’s Old Vine Project certifies qualifying vineyards from 35 years and allows the planting year to appear on its Certified Heritage Vineyards seal. Rather less poetic, considerably more useful.

So when old vines appears on a bottle, by all means enjoy the romance. But a date tells you rather more than the adjective does.